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  • Hand Hewn Beams - Reclaimed Wood | Mfine Lumber

    HAND HEWN BEAMS Our hand-hewn beams are truly unique. Using only antique cutting tools, our craftsmen hand-chisel each beam to perfection. This process leaves behind unmistakable axe marks, which give the beams their rich character and authenticity. Available in oak and softwoods, our hand-hewn beams are the perfect way to add a touch of rustic charm to your home. Order today our hand-hewn beams and start enjoying the beauty and uniqueness of our handcrafted product! Next GET A FREE QUOTE

  • Yellow Pine Rough - Paneling | Mfine Lumber

    YELLOW PINE ROUGH PANELING These Yellow Pine Rough boards were harvested in the United States' Northeast area. During the Industrial Revolution, it was the most common construction material used to construct factories. When you want a rich grain to create a warm, rustic atmosphere, Yellow Pine Rough Paneling is a perfect choice. Wall and ceiling paneling can be done in the same way. Comes standard in 3/8” thickness (3/4”-1” thicknesses available upon custom request) REQUEST A QUOTE NEXT >

  • Shipping Policy | M Fine Lumber

    SHIPPING & DELIVERY POLICY ​ Last updated November 01, 2022 Please carefully review our Shipping & Delivery Policy when purchasing our products. This policy will apply to any order you place with us. ​ WHAT ARE MY SHIPPING & DELIVERY OPTIONS? ​ In-Store Pickup ​ In-store pickup is available for all purchases. Pickups are available . ​ We offer various shipping options. In some cases a third-party supplier may be managing our inventory and will be responsible for shipping your products. ​ Shipping Fees We offer shipping at the following rates: __________ 4-15 All times and dates given for delivery of the products are given in good faith but are estimates only. ​ DO YOU DELIVER INTERNATIONALLY? ​ We do not offer international shipping. ​ WHAT HAPPENS IF MY ORDER IS DELAYED? ​ If delivery is delayed for any reason we will let you know as soon as possible and will advise you of a revised estimated date for delivery. ​ HOW CAN YOU CONTACT US ABOUT THIS POLICY? If you have any further questions or comments, you may contact us by: Email: ​

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Blog Posts (29)

  • What Are the 3 Grades of Sandpaper?

    Sandpaper is a key tool to have around the house, but it can be hard to know which grade of abrasive offers the best results for your sanding projects. To make your next project go smoothly and save time trying out different options, it’s important to understand the three main grades of sandpaper: coarse, medium, and fine. Keep reading for more details about these three types, their uses, and how they differ from one another. What Is Sandpaper Grit? Sandpaper grit is measured using a gauge number, with lower values indicating coarser grits. For example, #36- to #80-grit are incredibly harsh and rough, whereas #320-grit paper is very fine and contains only tiny abrasive particles. Sandpaper grit numbers are usually stated clearly on the back of the abrasive. Grit numbers vary from #36 to #320, however, most jobs would require a grit from somewhere in the middle of this range. Grit Ranges for Sandpaper Coarse: #36 – #100 Grit Coarse grit sandpaper is ideal for removing material and shaping surfaces. This type of abrasive has a coarse texture, making it useful for projects that involve stripping away old paint, smoothing slightly rough surfaces, or prepping a piece of wood or metal for varnishing. It is also an excellent aid for shaping surfaces before applying a finish. Use extreme caution while sanding veneer plywood, since the thin surface layers are easily worn away with sanding. Uses include: Taking off coats like paint or varnish Getting rid of blemishes in wood or rusting in metal Shaping and smoothing wood Medium: #100 – #180 Grit Sanding with #100–#180 grit is a great option for those who want more control and accuracy with their sanding job; the medium-grit range allows the user to remove old coatings, smooth out rough surfaces, and prepare areas for future finishes without over-sanding. Uses include: Polishing Getting rid of scratches Preparing for final finishes Fine: #180 – #320 Grit This type of sandpaper is usually reserved for sanding down surfaces that have previously been worked on, unless the surface is already very smooth and even to the touch. Fine-grit sandpaper is sometimes used to roughen glossy paint before applying another layer. If you plan on staining the wood often, you shouldn't sand it with anything finer than 320 grit. Abrasives with a fine grit are ideal for finishing wood furniture. Uses include: Getting rid of protruding wood grain fibers Scuffing between coats of finish Types of Sandpapers Aluminum oxide: This long-lasting synthetic grit is a great option for sanding wood and metal. Emery: Usually used to polish metals as it is generally too rough to sand wood with. Garnet: Utilized for fine sanding in woodworking. Garnet is somewhat softer than emery. Silicon carbide: This type of sandpaper is the most resilient of all synthetic abrasives and may be used to sand a variety of surfaces including plastic, metal, and wood. What Is the Best Sandpaper Grit for Wood? Sanding may be done manually or with an electric sander, although the latter is far more efficient. Disc, sheet, and belt sanders are all available for use with power equipment. While selecting a sandpaper grit for wood, keep the following in mind: It is difficult to strip paint or varnish using fine grit sandpaper. Since medium sandpaper leaves a coarse surface finish, it must be followed with a finer grit abrasive. Choose a specific grit number according to desired finish. Material may be quickly stripped away using coarse sandpaper. Other Sanding Tools Sanding sponges are pads with grit built in. They work well on both curved and flat surfaces and may be used for wet or dry sanding. They are more durable and reusable than sandpaper. Sanding sponges with built-in channels protect the abrasive from getting clogged with dust. Steel wool is an abrasive that can allow you to work on surfaces that sandpaper cannot. Steel wool may leave little strands behind that can soon rust and discolor. Bronze wool is a non-rusting alternative. Refinishing pads are flexible and reusable sheets of non-shedding abrasive material. You may cut them to whatever size or shape you like. Drywall screens are open-mesh metal items that are used to level joint compound and plaster. They are less prone to clogging than drywall sandpaper and may be readily cleaned for reuse. Overall, there are three primary grades of abrasives, each with its own purpose and benefits. Regardless of which type you choose, make sure to wear a dust mask and protective eye gear when sanding for your safety. With these tips in mind, you are ready to take on any project with ease!

  • The Rich History of Tobacco Barns and Their Salvaged Wood

    Tobacco barns are not only a symbol of Southern American history, but also an iconic architectural feat. From the stacked wood boards inside to the striking red paint on the exterior - these historic structures are as charming as they come. Not only do antique tobacco barns bring back memories from days gone by, but their salvaged wood also has its own unique story. In this blog post we'll explore the rich history of tobacco barns and how their salvaged wood can be repurposed into pieces with both heritage and character. What are Tobacco Barns? The tobacco barn, a kind of functionally-categorized barn found in the United States, was originally a vital component in the curing process of tobacco leaves. They are rapidly vanishing from the landscape in regions where they were once common. As the tobacco industry as a whole falls, so have the barns with states like Maryland actively opposing tobacco growing. However, when the US tobacco business was at its peak, tobacco barns could be seen all over the country. Brief history The towering tobacco barns are a significant part of American history, originating in the 1700s and continuing for centuries later, making them an iconic symbol of a bygone era. The majority of historic tobacco barns in the country date back to the 20th century, when the USDA promoted a uniform barn design to help in the curing of tobacco. Standardized dimensions, based on USDA publications and regulations, first appeared in Kentucky tobacco barns in the 1930s. The width of a barn was between 25 and 48 feet and the side walls were between 16 and 24 feet high, with four to six levels that were four to five feet apart. The length of the barn was determined by the farmer's budget and the size of his tobacco base. (1) In spite of these guidelines, many tobacco barns continued to be constructed however the farmer saw fit. Present state Some States, such as Maryland, have funded initiatives to discourage tobacco growing. In 2001, the state-sponsored initiative in Maryland gave tobacco producers cash buyouts. The majority of tobacco farmers accepted the buyout, immediately rendering hundreds of old tobacco barns obsolete. Tobacco barns have always been an important part of the tobacco farming heritage in many Southern States, and now they are being put to a new use - reclaimed wood! These rustic and often centuries-old buildings are full of potential, offering a unique, one-of-a-kind look for any home or business. This sort of patina that comes with age and wear is hard to replicate, making these historic structures an attractive option for those looking to add character to any renovation project. Reclaimed tobacco pine wood If you travel the rural roads of the American Midwest, you'll likely come across 150 to 200-year-old tobacco barns with aged wood paneling. Farmers built barns for drying tobacco using pine wood as siding, floor joists, and roof rafters - a unique procedure that gave the pine its richly mixed hue and texture (without the smell). The distinct look of deep, rich brown tones is intertwined with the wood's natural honey tone. This wood, which is naturally worn and dark, brings warmth to any decor and is incorporated today to make a variety of wood products such as flooring, siding, and shelving. The humble tobacco barn has seen a resurgence of appreciation in recent years as the wood from these vanishing structures is gaining newfound respect and recognition. To discover the beauty and unique character of this historic wood is to truly appreciate its past. Whether it’s used as an attic ceiling or paneling on a wall, when it comes to salvaged tobacco barn wood, no two boards are ever alike. Next time you find yourself walking around in North Carolina, take a moment to think about all of the memories and tales shared between the locals, who once worked inside of those old barns, just waiting to be told again. (1) “Agricultural Outbuildings: Tobacco Barns | University of Kentucky College of Arts and Sciences.” Agricultural Outbuildings: Tobacco Barns | University of Kentucky College of Arts & Sciences, Accessed 8 Feb. 2023.

  • How to Choose Between Different Types of Shelf Brackets

    Shelf brackets are a crucial component of shelving as they provide the support system needed so shelves can hold items effectively. Whether you’re building a shelf from scratch or mounting one onto existing walls, it’s important to know what types of shelf brackets are available and when they are most applicable. In this blog post we'll look at the structure and function of each type, from heavy duty brackets to hidden shelf and pipe shelf brackets, so you can make an informed decision on which kind is right for your particular project. Choose a Type of Wood for Your Shelves Dimensional Timber: These include common lumber from hardware stores like Home Depot. It's a simple and cost efficient alternative. They typically sell both low-cost pine boards and more costly oak timber. Premade Shelving: Many websites and hardware stores sell this type of shelving. These include standard laminated wood shelves as well as more natural hardwood shelves. Live edge or Salvaged Shelves: If you're searching for more interesting or unfinished pieces of wood, you should consider reclaimed wood shelves. Customized Shelves: Another alternative for a less hands-on approach is to hire a woodworker or carpenter to make custom shelves. This is often a more costly choice, but it allows for entirely customizable sizes and finishes. Select Your Bracket Style After choosing your type of wood for shelving, it’s time to pick out a style of brackets for your floating shelves: L brackets: Also known as brass shelf brackets, are the most common and basic type. Because the uneven rough edge of live edge timber does not usually fit inside a front lip, brass shelf brackets are the best option for irregularly shaped planks. Z Brackets: These are the most classic and typical brackets. These brackets have a leg support beneath the shelf and the boards will lie flat against the wall with a front "lip" that extends around the shelf edge. This is a very traditional design that is suitable for starter projects. This is also useful for existing shelves that require extra support since they can be installed without removing the shelf. J Brackets: This kind of bracket creates a 'floating' look by placing the leg support above the shelf while the front lip wraps around the shelf to keep it in place. The board does not sit completely flat against the wall since the metal leg is hidden beneath the shelf. J brackets are an ideal choice for creating sturdy shelves while maintaining the minimalist, floating effect. Heavy duty shelf brackets: These are specifically designed for larger and heavier shelves, making them perfect for holding heavier items. Heavy duty shelf brackets are built to be tough and are coated with corrosion resistant finishes to ensure they will stand up against extreme weights and hold up well over the years. Hidden shelf brackets: These shelves are a creative way to display items while maintaining an elegant, clutter-free look. When installing hidden shelf brackets, the shelves slip into the mounting hardware and hang against the wall without needing visible support. This makes them the perfect choice for adding storage space with minimal visual impact. Folding shelf brackets: This sturdy type is used to construct a variety of shelves. Folding shelf brackets allow for adjustable levels of depth and angle, making them incredibly versatile for a number of practical uses. Folding shelf brackets are perfect for creating an organized workspace or for providing extra storage in the kitchen or bathroom. Pipe shelf brackets: These are a stylish and practical choice for a floating shelf. These shelving fixtures offer a unique industrial look, perfect for adding an interesting focal point to contemporary apartments or commercial interiors. Traditional pipe shelf brackets consist of two pipes connected by cast iron flanges. Identify the Number of Brackets Needed for Each Shelf Here are our suggestions for the number of brackets required depending on the length of the shelf: 2 brackets for 0” to 36” 3 brackets for 37” to 68” 4 brackets for 69” to 100” 5 brackets for 101” to 132” 6 brackets for 133” to 164” Floating shelf brackets come in a wide range of materials, styles, and sizes to suit your every need. With so many options on the market, it’s important to understand the different types of shelf brackets and their properties before making a purchase. Armed with this knowledge, you can choose the perfect brackets for your shelves and make sure they provide years of reliable support.

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